
Breederpack Working Dog
Complete dry food for adult working dogs, 22% protein, mixed-shape crunchy kibble.
£18.99
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Good food. Happy tails.
Dry food is what most dogs in Britain eat, largely because it is easy to store, easy to measure and cheap per meal — and because a complete kibble genuinely does contain everything a dog needs.
Breakfast, dinner and the bits between.Find their favourites
Choose a section to narrow the range.

Complete dry food for adult working dogs, 22% protein, mixed-shape crunchy kibble.
£18.99

Grain-free complete food for working dogs, chicken-based, in a 12kg sack
£39.99

A salmon and rice dry food for adult dogs with sensitive digestions, made without wheat gluten, soya or dairy.
£49.00



An energy-controlled chicken dry food for working dogs with lower energy needs or a tendency to put on weight.
£29.00



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A little guidance
| If your dog is… | Look for | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Under a year old | A puppy or junior complete | Higher protein and calcium for growth, and a smaller kibble. Large-breed puppies need a recipe made for them so they grow slowly rather than fast. |
| An adult in normal condition | An adult complete, fed to weight | The recipe matters less than the amount. Feed to the dog’s healthy weight rather than their current one, and weigh it. |
| Seven or older and slowing down | A senior recipe | Usually fewer calories and often added joint support. Worth changing when activity drops, not on the birthday. |
| Itchy, or loose after meals | A single named protein, sensitive recipe | Fewer ingredients makes it possible to work out what the problem is. Change one thing at a time or you learn nothing. |
| Working, or on the go all day | A working or performance recipe | Higher fat and calories per gram. A dog fed this and then rested for a fortnight will put on weight quickly. |
A food labelled complete is formulated to provide everything a dog needs from that food alone. A complementary food is not, and is meant to be fed alongside something else. The word appears on the pack because it has a legal meaning, and it is the single most useful thing on the label.
It also means you do not need to add anything. Toppers, mixers and a spoon of something from your plate are fine in small amounts as treats, but a complete food does not need improving, and the more you add the less the carefully balanced part is doing.
Move over about a week, mixing an increasing share of the new food into the old. Dogs switched in a single meal very often get loose stools, and the new food then gets blamed for something the changeover caused. If you are trying a food to solve a problem, a rushed swap makes the result impossible to read.
Give a new food a fair run before judging it. Coat and stool changes take a few weeks to show, and a dog that is suspicious of the bowl on day two is usually just a dog that liked the old smell.
Everything here is chosen to be genuinely useful in everyday life with your pet — quality-checked, fairly priced and shipped tracked across the UK. For any health concern, your vet is always the best first port of call.
Start with the feeding guide on the pack for your dog’s healthy adult weight, then adjust to what you see over a few weeks. The guide is a starting point for an average dog, not a prescription.
Not inherently. It suits a dog that genuinely reacts to a grain, and for most dogs it is simply a different recipe at a higher price. Grain sensitivity is much less common than protein sensitivity.
Yes, and many people do. Count both towards the daily total rather than giving a full portion of each, which is the usual way a dog ends up overweight on two good foods.
Over about a week, mixing a growing proportion of the new food into the old. A sudden change is the most common cause of loose stools.
Usually the meat content and whether it is named. A recipe listing "chicken (30%)" costs more to make than one listing "meat and animal derivatives", and the second tells you nothing about what is in it.
Related collections from across the shop.
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