Snake food
Most kept snakes are fed whole frozen prey — mice or rats for the majority of common pet species — thawed fully before feeding rather than given live, which is both safer for the snake and generally considered better practice. Getting the prey size and feeding frequency right matters more than any other single decision in feeding a pet snake.
Sizing prey correctly
As a general guide, prey should be roughly the same width as the widest part of the snake's body, since prey that is too large can cause regurgitation or, in rarer cases, more serious problems, while prey that is consistently too small will not provide adequate nutrition for growth. As a snake grows, prey size needs to be stepped up in stages rather than staying the same indefinitely.
Species and age both affect this significantly — a juvenile snake needs much smaller prey fed more frequently than an adult of the same species, so checking species-specific guidance rather than applying one rule across all snakes matters.
Thawing and feeding safely
Frozen prey should always be fully thawed, ideally in a fridge over several hours followed by warming to room temperature, never fed to a snake still frozen or defrosted quickly in hot water, which can affect the prey's texture and safety. Using tongs to present prey, rather than hands, reduces the risk of an accidental bite mistaken for feeding.
Feed in a separate container from the main enclosure for species prone to substrate ingestion while feeding, and always monitor a snake during and after feeding rather than leaving prey unattended in the enclosure.
How often to feed
Feeding frequency varies a great deal by species, age and size — juveniles of many species feed more often than adults, and some adult snakes need feeding only every couple of weeks or even less. A snake that refuses food occasionally is not automatically unwell, since many species naturally go off food during shedding or, in some cases, seasonally, but persistent refusal is worth checking with a vet experienced in reptiles.
Keeping a simple written log of feeding dates and prey size, rather than relying on memory, makes it much easier to spot a genuine change in appetite against what is normal for your particular snake, since the acceptable gap between meals for an adult of a slow-feeding species can look alarming if you are used to a juvenile eating weekly. It also helps when discussing a feeding concern with a vet, since an exact record of dates and refused meals is more useful than a general impression that it hasn't eaten in a while.
What we stock
Everything below is in stock with us, priced with delivery worked out, and packed and posted by hand in the UK.

Hagen Exo Terra Daylight Basking Spot
A broad-spectrum daylight basking bulb, providing heat and light for a terrarium
From£8.39

Komodo Tortoise Food Salad Mix
A complete holistic tortoise diet flavoured to taste like fresh salad
£7.29

Monkfield Mouse, Fluff
25 frozen Fluff-stage mice (3-5g each) for reptiles, from a DEFRA-licensed maker
£14.99

Tetra Reptomin Sticks
Complete Tetra ReptoMin dry sticks for water turtles, with calcium and phosphorus
£4.98

Tetra ReptoMin
Floating stick food for water turtles, with 39% protein and added calcium for shell growth
£9.06

Supa Turtle Food Super
A freeze-dried shrimp and tubifex food for turtles, alongside fresh food
From£5.99

Komodo Tortoise Food Dandelion
A complete holistic tortoise diet in dandelion flavour, high in fibre
From£7.29

Komodo Tortoise Food Fruit Flower Flavour
A fruit and flower flavoured tortoise diet, high in fibre with a calcium-forward mineral ratio
From£7.29

Komodo Aspen Bed Terrain
A 6-litre aspen bedding for snakes, built to hold its shape when burrowed into
£6.79
Common questions
- Should I feed my snake live or frozen prey?
- Frozen, fully thawed prey is generally considered safer and better practice than live prey for the vast majority of kept snakes, removing the risk of the prey injuring the snake and being just as nutritionally complete when handled correctly.
- What size prey should I feed my snake?
- As a general guide, prey should be roughly the same width as the widest part of the snake's body. Prey that is too large risks regurgitation, while consistently undersized prey will not provide enough nutrition, and the right size changes as the snake grows.
- How do I thaw frozen snake food safely?
- Thaw prey slowly, ideally in the fridge over several hours, then bring it to room temperature before feeding — never feed it still frozen or rush the process in hot water, which can affect the prey's texture and safety.
- Why has my snake stopped eating?
- Many snakes naturally go off food during shedding, and some species reduce feeding seasonally without anything being wrong. If a snake refuses food persistently over an extended period, or shows other signs of being unwell, it is worth getting checked by a vet experienced with reptiles.
Related
Written by Matt Garnett, who runs Giddy Pets and is a lifelong pet owner — not a vet. This is general information, not veterinary advice, and it cannot replace an examination by the vet who knows your animal. How we write these guides.



