Rabbit houses
A rabbit house — whether an outdoor hutch-style structure or an indoor enclosure — needs to work as one part of a much larger space rather than being the whole of a rabbit's world. Welfare guidance from the Rabbit Welfare Association and PDSA is consistent on this: rabbits need continuous access to space well beyond what any standalone house provides on its own.
Treat it as a base, not the whole enclosure
A rabbit house works best as a secure, weatherproof retreat permanently connected to a much larger run or a rabbit-proofed room, rather than somewhere a rabbit is shut in for most of the day. Recommended minimum space for that combined area is around 3m x 2m x 1m high, with continuous access rather than occasional supervised time.
If you are buying a house and a separate run, check they physically connect with a secure tunnel or door rather than requiring the rabbit to be picked up and moved between the two, since that limits how much the space actually gets used.
Weatherproofing and ventilation for outdoor housing
An outdoor rabbit house needs a genuinely watertight roof, raised legs to keep the base off damp ground, and enough ventilation to prevent condensation building up inside during winter without creating a draught directly onto the sleeping area. Check how easily the roof and base come apart for cleaning — a house that is awkward to clean tends to be cleaned less often, which affects a rabbit's health.
A thick layer of insulating bedding in the sleeping compartment matters more in winter than most owners expect, and it is worth checking daily that it stays dry rather than assuming the roof alone is doing the job.
Indoors, security and flooring both matter
An indoor rabbit house still needs bars or panels a rabbit cannot bend or squeeze through, and a solid floor rather than wire, which can cause sore hocks over time. Position it away from direct sources of heat and draughts, and somewhere the rabbit can see some household activity, since a house tucked away in an unused room tends to get far less use from both rabbit and owner.
Check what is within reach of the house once it is in position, not just what is inside it — house rabbits chew accessible cables and skirting boards as readily as they chew anything else, so a house placed against a wall with a cable run behind it is inviting a problem that has nothing to do with the house itself. Many owners also add a litter tray just inside or beside the entrance, since rabbits often choose one corner to toilet in anyway, and placing a tray there from the start tends to work with that habit rather than against it.
What we stock
Everything below is in stock with us, priced with delivery worked out, and packed and posted by hand in the UK.
Adjustable Tortoise Harness and Lead
An adjustable harness and lead set sized for tortoises and turtles, for safe garden adventures.
£7.99
Four Flags Quick Ferret Muzzle — Grooming & Handling Aid
A temporary, reliable muzzle designed specifically for ferrets — useful for grooming, medicating, and routine handling.
£14.99
Hamster Exercise Ball
A clear rolling exercise ball that lets your hamster roam and stay active safely around the home, with ventilation slots and a secure lid. Supplied in a random colour.
£7.99
Rabbit No-Rinse Dry-Cleaning Foam
A no-rinse foam that gently cleans and freshens your rabbit's coat between full washes, no water needed.
£7.99
PawHut 12-Panel Small Animal Playpen for Guinea Pigs, 105cm, White
Twelve 45 x 35cm panels and multi-angle connectors that build a 105 x 105cm open pen at 45cm high, for evening floor time with guinea pigs or hedgehogs.
£35.99
Poultry Nappy Harness for Chickens, Ducks & Geese
A washable fabric nappy harness for house poultry, catching droppings to keep your home clean.
From£7.99
Hanging Cage Hammock for Small Pets
A soft sherpa-lined cage hammock that gives small pets a warm, lofted spot to curl up.
From£8.99
Selective Timothy Hay
UK-grown Timothy hay for rabbits and other small animals, for unlimited daily feeding
£9.99
Small Pet Carrier Shoulder Bag with Bubble Window
A ventilated travel carrier bag for hamsters, guinea pigs and other small pets, with a clear bubble window and breathable mesh panels. The adjustable shoulder strap makes outings and vet trips easy.
£13.99
Selective Naturals Woodland Loops
Dandelion and rosehip flavoured loop treats for rabbits, guinea pigs, degus and chinchillas
£3.99
Selective Naturals Orchard Loops
Apple-flavoured loop treats for rabbits, guinea pigs, degus and chinchillas
£3.99
Selective Naturals Meadow Loops
Pea-flavoured loop treats for rabbits, guinea pigs, degus and chinchillas
£3.99
Common questions
- Is a rabbit house on its own enough space?
- No — welfare guidance recommends a rabbit house is connected permanently to a much larger run or rabbit-proofed area, since a standalone house provides nowhere near the space a rabbit needs for full-time living, even a fairly large one.
- How do I keep an outdoor rabbit house dry in winter?
- Check the roof is genuinely watertight, raise the house off the ground on legs so damp cannot rise from below, and use a generous layer of dry, insulating bedding in the sleeping area, checking it daily and replacing it as soon as it feels damp.
- Can rabbits live indoors in a house rather than outdoors?
- Yes, many rabbits live very well indoors as long as the house is secure, has a solid rather than wire floor, and is connected to enough space to move around freely. Keep it away from draughts and direct heat sources such as radiators.
- Do two rabbits need a bigger house than one?
- Since rabbits are social animals best kept in bonded pairs, a house and attached space sized for one rabbit will not comfortably suit two. Plan the overall space for the pair together, not just for a single rabbit, before buying.
Related
Sources
Written against guidance published by UK veterinary and welfare organisations. Always confirm specifics with your own vet.
Written by Matt Garnett, who runs Giddy Pets and is a lifelong pet owner — not a vet. This is general information, not veterinary advice, and it cannot replace an examination by the vet who knows your animal. How we write these guides.