Rabbit cages
The single biggest problem with rabbit cages is size: many sold as "rabbit cages" are only really suitable as a sleeping or feeding area within a much larger run, not as full-time housing. The Rabbit Welfare Association recommends a minimum continuous space of roughly 3m x 2m x 1m high with permanent access to it, which rules out most small hutch-style cages sold on their own.
What size actually means for a rabbit
Rabbits need enough height to sit up fully on their back legs without their ears touching the top, and enough length to take at least three hops in a row. A cage that only allows a rabbit to turn around is not enough space, even for a single small breed rabbit, and it becomes more of a problem the longer the rabbit lives in it.
The practical answer for most owners is to treat a cage as one part of the setup rather than the whole thing — a secure base connected permanently to a run or a rabbit-proofed room gives the rabbit somewhere enclosed to retreat to along with the space it actually needs to move properly.
Indoor or outdoor changes what to look for
An outdoor cage needs a genuinely weatherproof roof, a dry, draught-free sleeping section, and enough ventilation that condensation does not build up inside in winter. Check how the roof is sealed and whether the base lifts off easily for cleaning, because a cage that is awkward to clean tends to get cleaned less often.
An indoor cage still needs a solid, chew-resistant base and bars a rabbit cannot bend or squeeze through, particularly for smaller or younger rabbits. Wire flooring is worth avoiding altogether — it is uncomfortable underfoot and can cause sore hocks over time.
Two rabbits, not one
Rabbits are highly social and the RWAF and PDSA both advise keeping them in bonded pairs rather than alone, which means the space question above effectively doubles. A cage sized for one rabbit that then houses two is a common and avoidable mistake.
Two unneutered rabbits should never simply be put together and left to sort themselves out — a supervised introduction on neutral territory, built up gradually over several sessions, gives a far better chance of a lasting bond than shutting two strangers straight into one cage. Neutering both rabbits first also cuts out most of the territorial behaviour that makes early bonding attempts go wrong. Once a pair is properly bonded, most rabbits are inseparable, and splitting them apart again later — even for a routine trip to the vet — can undo months of settled companionship, so keep any time apart as brief as circumstances allow.
What we stock
Everything below is in stock with us, priced with delivery worked out, and packed and posted by hand in the UK.

Adjustable Tortoise Harness and Lead
An adjustable harness and lead set sized for tortoises and turtles, for safe garden adventures.
£7.99

Four Flags Quick Ferret Muzzle — Grooming & Handling Aid
A temporary, reliable muzzle designed specifically for ferrets — useful for grooming, medicating, and routine handling.
£14.99

Hamster Exercise Ball
A clear rolling exercise ball that lets your hamster roam and stay active safely around the home, with ventilation slots and a secure lid. Supplied in a random colour.
£7.99

Rabbit No-Rinse Dry-Cleaning Foam
A no-rinse foam that gently cleans and freshens your rabbit's coat between full washes, no water needed.
£7.99

PawHut 12-Panel Small Animal Playpen for Guinea Pigs, 105cm, White
Twelve 45 x 35cm panels and multi-angle connectors that build a 105 x 105cm open pen at 45cm high, for evening floor time with guinea pigs or hedgehogs.
£35.99

Poultry Nappy Harness for Chickens, Ducks & Geese
A washable fabric nappy harness for house poultry, catching droppings to keep your home clean.
From£7.99

Hanging Cage Hammock for Small Pets
A soft sherpa-lined cage hammock that gives small pets a warm, lofted spot to curl up.
From£8.99

Selective Timothy Hay
UK-grown Timothy hay for rabbits and other small animals, for unlimited daily feeding
£9.99

Small Pet Carrier Shoulder Bag with Bubble Window
A ventilated travel carrier bag for hamsters, guinea pigs and other small pets, with a clear bubble window and breathable mesh panels. The adjustable shoulder strap makes outings and vet trips easy.
£13.99

Selective Naturals Woodland Loops
Dandelion and rosehip flavoured loop treats for rabbits, guinea pigs, degus and chinchillas
£3.99

Selective Naturals Orchard Loops
Apple-flavoured loop treats for rabbits, guinea pigs, degus and chinchillas
£3.99

Selective Naturals Meadow Loops
Pea-flavoured loop treats for rabbits, guinea pigs, degus and chinchillas
£3.99
Common questions
- Is a hutch the same as a rabbit cage?
- Broadly yes, though "hutch" usually implies an outdoor wooden structure and "cage" a wire or plastic indoor one. Whichever term is used, check the actual dimensions rather than the name — both are commonly sold far smaller than a rabbit needs for full-time living.
- Can a rabbit live in a cage without a run attached?
- Not comfortably as permanent housing. Welfare guidance recommends continuous access to a much larger space than any standalone cage provides, so a cage on its own is better treated as a sleeping and feeding base connected to a run or rabbit-proofed room.
- How do I know if a cage is too small?
- If your rabbit cannot sit up fully on their back legs without their ears brushing the roof, or cannot take three hops in a straight line, the cage is too small for full-time housing, even if it is sold as suitable for their breed size.
- Should I keep one rabbit or two?
- Rabbit welfare organisations recommend keeping rabbits in bonded pairs rather than alone, since they are naturally social animals. If you are planning a second rabbit, remember the space and cage size needs to work for both of them together, not just one.
Related
Sources
Written against guidance published by UK veterinary and welfare organisations. Always confirm specifics with your own vet.
Written by Matt Garnett, who runs Giddy Pets and is a lifelong pet owner — not a vet. This is general information, not veterinary advice, and it cannot replace an examination by the vet who knows your animal. How we write these guides.