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How much to feed a rabbit, and what actually matters

The method matters far more than an exact weight here: hay should make up the large majority of a rabbit's daily diet, offered in an amount roughly the size of the rabbit itself and available at all times, with a portion of fresh leafy greens and a small measured amount of pellets or nuggets alongside it. Fresh water must always be available too, and any sudden change to this balance is worth watching closely.

Hay first, always

Rabbit welfare organisations are consistent on this point: hay or fresh grass should make up around eighty to ninety percent of a rabbit's diet, not an occasional extra. It supports their constantly growing teeth and keeps their digestive system moving properly, which is genuinely one of the more common things to go wrong when hay is treated as optional.

A rabbit's own bodyweight in hay each day, given loosely and topped up as it is eaten rather than left to run out, is the standard most welfare charities recommend. Good quality hay should be available around the clock, not measured out like a meal.

Greens and a small amount of pellets

A varied handful of safe leafy greens daily gives a rabbit nutrients that hay alone does not fully cover, and variety matters more than any single vegetable being especially good. A small, measured amount of good-quality pellets or nuggets — a much smaller portion than hay, roughly a tablespoon or two per kilogram of rabbit depending on the brand's own guidance — rounds out the diet without being the main event.

It is easy to overdo the pellet portion because rabbits find it genuinely more appealing than hay, which is exactly why sticking to the measured amount on the packet matters. A rabbit filling up on pellets and leaving hay untouched is a sign the balance has tipped the wrong way.

Why muesli-style mixed feeds are best avoided

Muesli-style mixes let a rabbit pick out the tasty bits — usually the sugary, starchy pieces — and leave the rest, which welfare charities have linked to poor nutrition and dental problems from an unbalanced diet over time. A uniform pellet or nugget removes that selective feeding problem because every piece contains the same balanced mix.

If you are currently feeding a muesli-style mix, switching to a uniform pellet is worth doing gradually, alongside plenty of hay throughout the change, rather than swapping everything overnight.

Signs the balance needs a second look

A change in appetite, softer or fewer droppings than usual, or a rabbit who suddenly stops eating hay are all worth taking seriously, since rabbits can decline quickly once their gut slows down. Weight changes are also easier to miss under all that fur than you might expect, so a regular check by hand is worth building into a routine.

Any of these signs, or a rabbit who seems generally unwell, is worth a call to your vet rather than waiting to see if it resolves on its own — a rabbit that stops eating for even a day is considered an urgent situation by most vets.

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Common questions

How much hay does a rabbit need each day?
Roughly their own bodyweight in hay, available at all times rather than measured out like a single meal. It should make up the large majority of their diet, with fresh greens and a small amount of pellets alongside it.
Can rabbits eat too many pellets?
Yes. Pellets are more calorie-dense and more appealing to rabbits than hay, so overfeeding them can lead to weight gain and a rabbit eating less hay than they should, which affects their teeth and digestion over time.
Are muesli mixes bad for rabbits?
Welfare charities generally advise against them because rabbits pick out the tastiest pieces and leave the rest, leading to an unbalanced diet and, over time, dental problems. A uniform pellet or nugget avoids this selective feeding issue entirely.
What vegetables are safe for rabbits every day?
A varied mix of safe leafy greens is generally fine daily, with variety mattering more than any single vegetable. If you are ever unsure about a specific vegetable, check with a rabbit welfare charity's own list or your vet before offering it.

Related

Sources

Written against guidance published by UK veterinary and welfare organisations. Always confirm specifics with your own vet.

Written by Matt Garnett, who runs Giddy Pets and is a lifelong pet owner — not a vet. This is general information, not veterinary advice, and it cannot replace an examination by the vet who knows your animal. How we write these guides.