Should I feed exactly what the chart on the bag says?

Use it as a starting point rather than a fixed number, since it is based on an average dog at a given weight and activity level. Weigh the food properly, then adjust gradually over a couple of weeks based on how your own dog's body condition actually responds.

How do I know if I'm feeding too much or too little?

Feel along your dog's ribs and look at them from above — ribs that are easy to feel with a light fat covering and a visible waist is generally a healthy sign. Hard-to-feel ribs with no waist suggests too much; very prominent ribs with no covering suggests too little.

Do treats count towards the daily amount on the feeding chart?

Yes, and this is one of the most commonly missed parts of using a chart properly. The daily total on a pack assumes that food is the whole of a dog's intake, so treats, chews and any extras need to be accounted for on top rather than added freely.

Does my dog's feeding amount need to change as they get older?

Generally yes — an older, less active dog typically needs less than the same dog did as a younger, more active adult, and a specific senior diet is often lower in calories for this reason. Your vet can advise on timing this change for your own dog.

Why do different dog foods have different feeding amounts for the same weight of dog?

Foods vary in how calorie-dense they are, so a food with more calories per gram needs a smaller daily amount to provide the same energy as a less calorie-dense one. This is exactly why the amount needs rechecking whenever you switch to a different food.

How to use a dog feeding chart properly

The feeding chart on a dog food pack is a starting point based on an average dog of a given weight, not a precise number for your specific dog. Use it to find a rough starting amount, weigh it out properly rather than guessing, then adjust up or down over a couple of weeks based on how your own dog's body condition responds.

How to read the chart on the pack

Every feeding chart is built around an assumed activity level and life stage, cross-referenced against your dog's current weight, and gives a daily total that most packs then suggest splitting across two meals. Because it is based on an average dog, it will overfeed a less active dog and underfeed a working or very active one at the same weight, which is exactly why it is described as a starting point rather than a fixed prescription.

Always weigh food using digital kitchen scales rather than a scoop or cup, since a scoop's actual weight varies enormously between different foods depending on how dense the kibble is — the same scoop of two different foods can differ by a genuinely significant margin, which defeats the purpose of a carefully calculated chart in the first place.

Adjusting for your own dog

Start at the chart's suggested amount for your dog's current weight, then reassess after two to three weeks by feeling along the ribs and looking at your dog from above — ribs that are easy to feel with a light covering of fat and a visible waist behind the ribs is generally the target for a healthy weight, though this varies slightly by breed shape. If ribs are hard to feel under fat, or there is no visible waist, reduce the amount gradually; if ribs are prominent and there is no covering at all, increase it.

Life stage and activity genuinely change requirements considerably, so a chart aimed at an adult, moderately active dog needs adjusting for a working dog, a mostly sedentary older dog, or one recovering from illness or surgery. This is exactly the kind of adjustment worth discussing with your vet rather than guessing, particularly for a dog with any health condition.

Common feeding chart mistakes

Treats are one of the most commonly forgotten variables — a chart's daily total assumes that is the whole of a dog's food intake for the day, so training treats, table scraps and dental chews all need accounting for on top, not added freely alongside a full ration calculated separately. Free-feeding, where food is left out all day rather than measured into set meals, makes it very difficult to know how much a dog is actually eating and tends to lead to gradual overfeeding that is hard to notice day to day.

Switching foods without adjusting the amount is another common slip, since different foods vary in how calorie-dense they are, so the same weight of two different complete foods can provide a genuinely different amount of energy. Always check the new pack's own chart rather than assuming the previous amount still applies.

Feeding kit

Things we stock that owners commonly reach for here. Nothing on this page depends on you buying one.

Airtight Pet Food Storage Container

A high-capacity airtight storage container that keeps dry dog, cat or bird food fresh and moisture-free. Sturdy thick walls, a sealed push-lid and a clear window let you check levels at a glance, with a built-in measuring cup included.

From£10.99

Fast UK delivery

Tarhong Paw Ikat Teal Pet Placemat – BPA-Free PVC & EVA

A vibrant teal ikat placemat with paw print accents — BPA-free, wipe-clean, and 29 × 48 cm for protecting floors under pet bowls.

£8.49

Fast UK delivery

Tarhong Country Orchard Melamine Pet Saucer

A pretty fruit and floral orchard-print melamine saucer for pets — BPA-free, non-slip, shatterproof, and dishwasher safe at 13.2 cm.

£9.49

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Common questions

Should I feed exactly what the chart on the bag says?: Use it as a starting point rather than a fixed number, since it is based on an average dog at a given weight and activity level. Weigh the food properly, then adjust gradually over a couple of weeks based on how your own dog's body condition actually responds.
How do I know if I'm feeding too much or too little?: Feel along your dog's ribs and look at them from above — ribs that are easy to feel with a light fat covering and a visible waist is generally a healthy sign. Hard-to-feel ribs with no waist suggests too much; very prominent ribs with no covering suggests too little.
Do treats count towards the daily amount on the feeding chart?: Yes, and this is one of the most commonly missed parts of using a chart properly. The daily total on a pack assumes that food is the whole of a dog's intake, so treats, chews and any extras need to be accounted for on top rather than added freely.
Does my dog's feeding amount need to change as they get older?: Generally yes — an older, less active dog typically needs less than the same dog did as a younger, more active adult, and a specific senior diet is often lower in calories for this reason. Your vet can advise on timing this change for your own dog.
Why do different dog foods have different feeding amounts for the same weight of dog?: Foods vary in how calorie-dense they are, so a food with more calories per gram needs a smaller daily amount to provide the same energy as a less calorie-dense one. This is exactly why the amount needs rechecking whenever you switch to a different food.

Sources

Written against guidance published by UK veterinary and welfare organisations. Always confirm specifics with your own vet.

Written by Matt Garnett, who runs Giddy Pets and is a lifelong pet owner — not a vet. This is general information, not veterinary advice, and it cannot replace an examination by the vet who knows your animal. How we write these guides.