How to Stop a Cat Spraying Indoors
Cat spraying is scent-marking driven by hormones or stress, not spite. Here's how to find the cause and stop it, kindly — plus when it's a vet job.

Hi, I'm Matt, founder of Giddy Pets. Coming home to that sharp, unmistakable smell on the skirting board is grim — but spraying is one of the most misunderstood cat behaviours there is. Your cat isn't being spiteful or dirty. Spraying is scent-marking: a normal feline way of saying "this is mine" or "I feel uneasy here." Once you understand the why, you can usually turn it around with patience and a few practical changes. The key thing to hold onto is this: spraying is driven by emotion, usually anxiety or a need to feel secure, so the lasting fix is about helping your cat feel safe rather than stopping the behaviour by force.
This is general guidance, not a substitute for advice from your vet or a qualified, accredited behaviourist — please rule out medical causes first.
Why cats spray
Spraying is different from a litter-tray accident. A spraying cat usually stands, treadles their back feet, quivers their tail and deposits a small amount of urine on a vertical surface like a wall, door or sofa side. Squatting and emptying the bladder on the floor is more likely a toileting problem — see our guide on a cat not using the litter tray.
Common reasons cats spray include:
- Hormones. Entire (un-neutered) cats, especially toms, spray to mark territory and advertise for mates. Neutering greatly reduces this.
- Stress and insecurity. A new pet or baby, building work, moving home, a new piece of furniture, or even a different smell can make a cat want to top up their own reassuring scent.
- Other cats. Seeing or smelling neighbourhood cats through windows and cat flaps, or tension between cats in the same home, is a very common trigger.
- Changes in routine. Cats are creatures of habit; disruption can unsettle them.
What to try
Work on the underlying stress rather than the symptom.
1. Get a vet check first. Cystitis and other urinary problems can look like spraying or trigger it. Rule out pain before anything else. 2. Consider neutering. If your cat isn't neutered, speak to your vet — it's the single biggest reducer of marking. 3. Clean sprayed spots properly. Use a warm-water solution of an enzymatic or biological cleaner, not anything ammonia-based (ammonia smells like urine and invites a repeat). Let it dry, then a little surgical spirit can help on suitable surfaces. Avoid strong disinfectants. 4. Block the view of other cats. Frosted film on lower windows, closing curtains, or moving furniture away from sills can stop the trigger. Lock the cat flap or fit a microchip flap if strange cats are coming in. 5. Give your cat more security. Provide high perches, hideaways and separate resources so they feel safe. A synthetic feline pheromone diffuser can help some cats settle — you'll find calming aids in our shop. 6. Reduce competition in multi-cat homes. The rule of thumb is one of each key resource (litter tray, food bowl, water, bed) per cat plus one spare, spread around the home so no cat feels cornered. 7. Keep routines steady. Predictable feeding and quiet time help an anxious cat relax.
Give changes time. Once you've removed a trigger and lowered stress, most cats reduce their spraying over a few weeks, though deep-set habits can take longer. Keep a simple note of where and when spraying happens — it often reveals a pattern, such as marking by a particular window after the neighbour's cat passes, which points you straight at the trigger to manage. If you have several cats and aren't sure which one is spraying, your vet may suggest temporarily separating them or using a non-toxic tracer to identify the culprit, so you can focus your efforts.
What NOT to do
- Never punish your cat. Shouting, smacking, scruffing or squirting water increases the very stress that causes spraying, and damages your relationship.
- Don't rub their nose in it — it teaches fear, not cleanliness.
- Don't use ammonia-based cleaners or strong bleach on sprayed areas; they can encourage re-marking.
- Don't ignore a sudden change. New spraying in a previously clean cat often has a medical or stress trigger worth investigating.
When to get professional help
See your vet if spraying starts suddenly, if your cat is straining, going more often, or has blood in their urine, or if they seem unwell — these can be signs of a urinary problem that needs treatment. Once medical causes are ruled out, ask about a referral to an accredited behaviourist for a tailored plan; you can check credentials via the Animal Behaviour and Training Council. Our vets directory can help you find a local practice. For related issues, see cat not using the litter tray and how to stop a cat scratching the furniture, and our wider dog anxiety hub explains stress signals that apply across pets.
Sources
Common questions
Will neutering stop my cat spraying?
Neutering is the single most effective step and stops or greatly reduces spraying in most cats, especially toms. It works best alongside lowering stress and blocking triggers like the sight of neighbouring cats. Speak to your vet about the right age and timing.
How do I clean cat spray so they don't go again?
Use an enzymatic or biological cleaner with warm water, never an ammonia-based product or strong bleach — ammonia smells like urine and invites re-marking. Let it dry fully; a little surgical spirit can help on suitable surfaces.
Is spraying the same as my cat weeing on the floor?
No. Spraying is a small amount on a vertical surface with the cat standing and tail quivering. Squatting and emptying the bladder on a flat surface is usually a litter-tray issue — see our cat litter tray guide.
About the author
Matt — founder, Giddy Pets
Matt started Giddy Pets to make getting pets the good stuff simpler and fairer. Everything in these guides comes from real life with pets and a lot of trial and error — it's practical guidance, not veterinary advice. If a guide gets something wrong, tell him directly.
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