Behaviour

Cat Not Using the Litter Tray? Here's Why and How to Fix It

A cat going outside the tray is usually telling you something — medical, the tray setup, or stress. Here's how to work through it kindly, and when to call the vet.

By Matt, founder22 June 2026Lived-experience guidance, not medical advice

Hi, I'm Matt, founder of Giddy Pets. A cat who suddenly stops using the litter tray can be baffling and frustrating — but it's almost never naughtiness. Cats are fastidious, and going outside the tray is usually a sign that something about the tray, the location, or how they're feeling isn't right. Work through the likely causes calmly and most cats happily return to the tray. The first and most important thing to know is that a sudden change of toileting habits is one of the clearest signs a cat may be unwell, so this is never a problem to scold your way out of.

This is general guidance, not a substitute for advice from your vet or a qualified, accredited behaviourist — please rule out medical causes first.

Why cats stop using the litter tray

If a previously clean cat starts going elsewhere, think in three buckets: medical, the tray itself, and stress.

Medical. Urinary problems, cystitis, bladder stones, constipation, diarrhoea, kidney disease and arthritis (which makes climbing into a tray painful) can all cause accidents. This is why a vet check comes first.
The litter tray setup. Cats can dislike a tray that's too small, hooded when they prefer open (or the reverse), not clean enough, in a busy or noisy spot, too close to food and water, or filled with a litter texture or scent they hate.
Stress and territory. New pets, people, building work, moving home or tension with another cat can put a cat off their usual routine. Some house-soiling near doors or windows is linked to feeling threatened by outdoor cats — related to cat spraying.

It's also worth knowing that cats often develop a dislike of the tray after a bad experience there — for example, if they felt pain while urinating during a bout of cystitis, or were startled by a noisy appliance nearby. They then associate the tray itself with the unpleasant feeling and look for somewhere they consider safer. That's why fixing any medical cause and making the tray a calm, positive place usually go hand in hand.

What to try

1. See your vet first, especially if it's sudden, your cat is straining, going more often, has blood in the urine, or seems unwell. Toileting changes are a top reason to get checked. 2. Follow the tray rules cats love. Offer one tray per cat plus one spare, spread around the home. Use a large, open tray — bigger than your cat thinks they need. 3. Keep it spotless. Scoop at least once or twice daily and wash the tray regularly with mild, unscented cleaner. Many cats dislike heavily perfumed products. 4. Get the litter right. Most cats prefer a soft, sand-like, unscented clumping litter at a good depth. If you're changing types, do it gradually by mixing old and new. 5. Pick a calm, private location. Quiet, low-traffic, away from food and water, and easy to reach — for older or arthritic cats, choose a tray with a low side. 6. Clean accident spots properly with an enzymatic cleaner, not ammonia-based products, so the scent doesn't draw them back. 7. Lower stress. Provide hiding places, vertical space and predictable routines. A pheromone diffuser can help anxious cats; you'll find calming aids and litter trays in our shop.

It helps to think like a cat. Imagine being asked to use one cramped, smelly, perfumed toilet in the middle of a busy corridor — you'd avoid it too. Many "behaviour" cases are solved simply by adding a second tray, switching to a larger open one, moving it somewhere quiet, or swapping a scented litter for a plain one. Change one thing at a time so you can see what works. For older cats, watch for signs of arthritis: if your cat hesitates at the tray, struggles to climb in, or has started going just beside it, a low-sided tray and a vet check for joint pain can make all the difference.

What NOT to do

Never punish or scold your cat for accidents, and don't rub their nose in it — it only adds fear and stress, which makes the problem worse.
Don't suddenly switch litter type or move the tray without a gradual transition; abrupt changes put cats off.
Don't place the tray next to food and water or in a busy thoroughfare.
Don't assume it's "behavioural" before a vet check — pain and illness are common, hidden causes.

When to get professional help

Book a vet appointment promptly if the change is sudden, if your cat is straining, crying, going very often, passing blood, or is otherwise unwell — a blocked bladder is a medical emergency, particularly in male cats. Once medical causes are ruled out, an accredited behaviourist can help with stress-related soiling; check credentials via the Animal Behaviour and Training Council, and use our vets directory to find a practice. See also how to stop a cat spraying and how to stop a cat scratching the furniture.

Sources

Common questions

How many litter trays should I have?

Offer one tray per cat plus one spare, placed in different quiet spots around the home. Big, open trays kept very clean, away from food and water, suit most cats best.

Could my cat have a medical problem?

Yes — urinary issues, constipation, kidney disease and arthritis commonly cause litter-tray problems. Always get a vet check first, urgently if your cat is straining, crying, passing blood or seems unwell, as a blocked bladder is an emergency.

Should I change the litter I use?

Most cats prefer a soft, unscented, sand-like clumping litter at a good depth. If you switch, do it gradually by mixing the new litter into the old so your cat isn't put off by a sudden change.

About the author

Matt — founder, Giddy Pets

Matt started Giddy Pets to make getting pets the good stuff simpler and fairer. Everything in these guides comes from real life with pets and a lot of trial and error — it's practical guidance, not veterinary advice. If a guide gets something wrong, tell him directly.