What to Expect at a Dog or Cat Dental Procedure

If your vet has booked your dog or cat in for a "dental", and you're now lying awake worrying about the general anaesthetic, you're in very good company. It's one of the most common procedures vets do, and one of the most misunderstood by owners. Knowing exactly what happens on the day takes a lot of the fear out of it.

Here's an honest, step-by-step walk through a typical UK dental, from the phone call that books it to the slightly wobbly pet you'll collect that afternoon. I've been through this with my own dogs more than once, so I'll flag the bits that surprised me too.

Why it has to be done under anaesthetic

This is the question almost every owner asks, usually hoping the answer is "it doesn't". Unfortunately it does, and for good reasons.

A proper dental isn't just scrubbing the visible bits of tooth. As the PDSA explains, without a general anaesthetic "your dog will not be able to have a full and effective examination and cleaning of their teeth including under the gum line". Most dental disease lives *below* the gumline, where you can't see it and an awake animal would never tolerate an instrument. So-called "anaesthetic-free dental cleaning" only polishes the visible crown and misses the disease that actually matters, which is why the profession advises against it.

There's a real, if small, risk with any anaesthetic, and a good practice won't pretend otherwise. PDSA puts it plainly: "Going under general anaesthetic always involves some degree of risk," while noting that modern veterinary medicine has done a lot to reduce it. The way that risk is managed is what the pre-op checks are all about.

And this genuinely matters, because dental disease is extremely common. A large VetCompass study of over 22,000 UK dogs found 12.5% were diagnosed with periodontal disease in a single year, and in cats a separate study put the annual figure even higher at 15.2%. Left untreated it's painful and can affect the heart and kidneys. A dental isn't cosmetic; it's treating an infection in the mouth.

Before the day: the pre-op checks

The health check and bloods

Before anaesthetic, your vet will examine your pet and often recommend a pre-anaesthetic blood test. This checks liver and kidney function and screens for problems that could make anaesthesia riskier, particularly in older pets. It's usually optional and comes at extra cost, but for a senior dog or cat I'd always say yes. It's cheap peace of mind.

For pets with heart murmurs or known conditions, the vet may adjust the anaesthetic protocol, run extra tests, or in some cases refer to a specialist. Don't be alarmed if they ask a lot of questions; that's exactly what you want.

Fasting the night before

You'll be given fasting instructions and they matter. PDSA's guidance is clear: "Dogs and cats shouldn't be fed after midnight before their surgery. It's fine for them to have water, but this should also be stopped after about 7am." An empty stomach reduces the risk of vomiting and inhaling food under anaesthetic.

One important exception: rabbits and small furries must not be starved. As PDSA warns, "withholding food would be very dangerous for them." This guide is about dogs and cats; if you have a rabbit, follow your vet's specific advice.

Practical tips from experience: pick up food bowls the night before so nobody sneaks a snack, and warn everyone in the house. If your dog is a determined bin-raider, secure the kitchen. And bring your pet in on a lead or in a carrier as normal.

On the day: what actually happens

You'll usually drop your pet off first thing, sign a consent form and leave a phone number they can reach you on all day. This is the part that feels hardest, handing them over. Here's what happens once they're in the back.

Admission and anaesthetic

The vet or nurse settles your pet in a kennel. They're given a pre-med (a sedative plus pain relief) to relax them, then a small area on a leg is clipped for an intravenous catheter. The anaesthetic is given through this, and once your pet is asleep a tube is placed in the windpipe to deliver oxygen and anaesthetic gas. A nurse monitors heart rate, breathing, blood pressure and temperature throughout, exactly as in human surgery.

The full mouth examination and charting

With your pet asleep, the vet can finally do what an awake examination never allows: probe every tooth, check for pockets in the gums, wobbly teeth and hidden fractures, and record it all on a dental chart. This is often when the true picture emerges. It's completely normal for a "routine scale and polish" to reveal more disease than expected.

Dental x-rays

Good practices now take dental radiographs, because much of the tooth is below the gumline and invisible to the eye. X-rays reveal root abscesses, bone loss and resorptive lesions (especially common in cats). This is why your vet often can't tell you in advance exactly how many teeth need to come out; they don't fully know until they're under anaesthetic with x-rays in hand.

The scale and polish

The cleaning itself uses an ultrasonic scaler to remove plaque and tartar from every surface, above and below the gumline. The teeth are then polished smooth, because scaling leaves microscopic roughness that plaque clings to. A smooth finish slows down how quickly it builds back up.

Extractions, if needed

This is the part owners dread, but try to reframe it: an extracted diseased tooth is a source of pain removed. Teeth that are loose, badly infected or fractured usually can't be saved. Removing a simple single-rooted tooth is quick; larger multi-rooted teeth may need the gum lifted, the tooth sectioned, roots removed one at a time and the gum stitched with dissolvable sutures. Pain relief is given during and after.

If a very large number of teeth need extracting, some vets will stage the work across two shorter anaesthetics rather than one very long one, as this can be safer. Your vet will ring you during the procedure if the plan changes significantly or if unexpected extractions push up the cost, so keep your phone to hand.

And don't panic about a mouth with several teeth gone. Both PDSA and vets I've spoken to make the same reassuring point: pets "adapt incredibly well to having teeth removed", and most eat comfortably, often better than before, once healed.

Recovery and collection

Most pets go home the same afternoon. At collection, a nurse or vet will talk you through:

• What they did — how many teeth were cleaned, whether any were extracted, and any findings.
• Pain relief — usually anti-inflammatory liquid or tablets to give at home; give every dose even if they seem fine.
• Antibiotics — sometimes, not always; finish the course if prescribed.
• Feeding — a small, soft meal that evening, then soft food for several days if there were extractions.
• A recheck — often a free post-op check a few days later to make sure the gums are healing.

Expect your pet to be groggy, quiet and a bit unsteady for the rest of the day; that's the anaesthetic wearing off. Keep them warm, calm and away from stairs and jumps that first evening. A slightly reduced appetite for a day is normal. Some blood-tinged saliva after extractions is also normal for a short while.

When to ring the vet after a dental

Contact the practice if you see any of these:

• Not eating at all by the day after
• Ongoing or heavy bleeding from the mouth
• Pawing at the face, dropping food repeatedly or obvious pain despite medication
• Swelling of the face or jaw
• Vomiting, extreme lethargy or failure to "come round" properly

What it costs, and insurance

Costs vary widely by practice, region and how much work is needed. A straightforward scale and polish is at the lower end; multiple surgical extractions with x-rays cost considerably more. Always ask for an estimate up front, and ask whether pre-anaesthetic bloods and dental x-rays are included or extra.

One thing that catches owners out: many pet insurance policies treat dental differently from other illness, and some only cover dental if you've kept up annual check-ups or if it results from an accident rather than disease. Read the small print before you assume you're covered. We explain the traps in does pet insurance cover dental? and, more broadly, in what pet insurance covers.

Preventing the next one

A dental treats the problem; it doesn't stop it coming back. Plaque starts reforming within days. The single most effective prevention, according to PDSA, is daily tooth brushing with a pet-specific toothpaste (never human toothpaste, which contains ingredients toxic to pets). Brushing even three times a week significantly cuts the risk.

Dental chews, dental diets and water additives can help as a supplement, though they're no substitute for brushing. If you're weighing them up, we've looked honestly at whether dental chews are worth it. Combine home care with an annual dental check at your vet, and you'll likely stretch the gap between professional dentals for years.

Quick pre-dental checklist

• [ ] Confirmed fasting time (no food after midnight; water until ~7am for dogs/cats)
• [ ] Picked up food bowls and warned the household
• [ ] Decided on pre-anaesthetic blood test (recommended for seniors)
• [ ] Asked for a written estimate, including x-rays and possible extractions
• [ ] Checked what your insurance covers for dental
• [ ] Given a daytime phone number the vet can reach you on
• [ ] Cleared your afternoon to collect and settle a groggy pet
• [ ] Soft food ready at home for the evening

Sources

• PDSA — Dental disease in dogs
• PDSA — Dental disease in cats
• PDSA — Preparing your pet for an operation
• Epidemiology of periodontal disease in dogs in the UK primary-care setting (VetCompass, RVC)
• Periodontal disease in cats under primary veterinary care in the UK (VetCompass, RVC)